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INCI name: Myristoyl Tetrapeptide-20, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol

Indoor tanning provides a year round, convenient, controlled environment for people of all types who want to enjoy the look and feel of a tan body. DermaPep™ T430 is a topically active short peptide that exerts effective tanning without harmful UV irradiation. Many signaling pathways are known to lead to up-regulation of tyrosinase activity and melanin production. Among these, mechanism involving α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH) and adrenocorticotropic hormone (ACTH) has been proved to be the major pathway to provide skin pigmentation with added advantage of anti-inflammatory effect.

DermaPep™ T430, acting as a MC1R agonist, activates certain genes involved in the process of pigmentation. Furthermore, DermaPep™ T430 reduces UVB-induced inflammation and thereby provides significant photoprotective effect.
Mechanism of Skin-Tanning Response

DermaPep™ T430
-Affinity for α-MSH receptor
-cAMP release
-Tyrosinase activation
-Strong anti-inflammatory effect
-Anti-skin cancer
-Protection of skin from UV
-Gorgeous glow

In vitro Efficacy

The tanning efficacy of DermaPep™ T430 has been demonstrated in vitro by measuring melanin contents and endogenous tyrosinase activity on B16F10 mouse melanoma and human primary melanocytes.

 Increase of melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity

DermaPep™ T430 functions as a MC1R-specific agonist and increase tyrosinase, TRP1, TRP2, MITF and POMC gene expression (supplementary data were not shown). DermaPep™ T430 significantly up regulates melanogenesis (melanin formation) and tyrosinase activity.

 Comparison to other skin tanning ingredients in vitro

DermaPep™ T430 is far more effective than other known tanning ingredients such as DHA.

 Protective effect on UV-induced skin damage

UV-protection effect is gained from increased melanin synthesis by DermaPep™ T430.

 Decrease of UV-induced inflammation

DermaPep™ T430 was treated before UVB irradiation on HaCaT human keratinocytes. DermaPep™ T430 dramatically reduced inflammatory cytokines (IL-1 α, IL-1 β, IL-6 and PGES).
In vivo Efficacy

The clinical test was performed on 15 Caucasian volunteers (Canada), aged 19 to 28 (Mean age 24). 1% formula containing DermaPep™ T430 has been applied once daily during 7 days on face area. Evaluation was performed by chromametry (chromameter CR-300®, Minolta, Japan).

 Self-tanning effect of DermaPep™ T430
DermaPep™ T430 showed excellent self-tanning effect on healthy volunteers compared to the untreated area.

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