INCI name: Myristoyl Tetrapeptide-20, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol
Indoor tanning provides a year round, convenient, controlled environment for people of all types who want to enjoy the look and feel of a tan body. DermaPep™ T430 is a topically active short peptide that exerts effective tanning without harmful UV irradiation. Many signaling pathways are known to lead to up-regulation of tyrosinase activity and melanin production. Among these, mechanism involving α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH) and adrenocorticotropic hormone (ACTH) has been proved to be the major pathway to provide skin pigmentation with added advantage of anti-inflammatory effect.
DermaPep™ T430, acting as a MC1R agonist, activates certain genes involved in the process of pigmentation. Furthermore, DermaPep™ T430 reduces UVB-induced inflammation and thereby provides significant photoprotective effect.
Mechanism of Skin-Tanning Response
-Affinity for α-MSH receptor
-Strong anti-inflammatory effect
-Protection of skin from UV
In vitro Efficacy
The tanning efficacy of DermaPep™ T430 has been demonstrated in vitro
by measuring melanin contents and endogenous tyrosinase activity on B16F10 mouse melanoma and human primary melanocytes.
Increase of melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity
DermaPep™ T430 functions as a MC1R-specific agonist and increase tyrosinase, TRP1, TRP2, MITF and POMC gene expression (supplementary data were not shown). DermaPep™ T430 significantly up regulates melanogenesis (melanin formation) and tyrosinase activity.
Comparison to other skin tanning ingredients in vitro
DermaPep™ T430 is far more effective than other known tanning ingredients such as DHA.
Protective effect on UV-induced skin damage
UV-protection effect is gained from increased melanin synthesis by DermaPep™ T430.
Decrease of UV-induced inflammation
DermaPep™ T430 was treated before UVB irradiation on HaCaT human keratinocytes. DermaPep™ T430 dramatically reduced inflammatory cytokines (IL-1 α, IL-1 β, IL-6 and PGES).
In vivo Efficacy
The clinical test was performed on 15 Caucasian volunteers (Canada), aged 19 to 28 (Mean age 24). 1% formula containing DermaPep™ T430 has been applied once daily during 7 days on face area. Evaluation was performed by chromametry (chromameter CR-300®, Minolta, Japan).
Self-tanning effect of DermaPep™ T430
DermaPep™ T430 showed excellent self-tanning effect on healthy volunteers compared to the untreated area.
▶ Click here for MSDS, Technical Information