INCI name:Palmitoyl hexapeptide-36, Methyl Undecenoyl Leucinate, Butylene Glycol
It is well known that skin pigmentation is mainly affected by three major signaling pathways; α-MSH/MC-1R, ET-1/ETBR, and SCF/c-kit. Despite the identification of several pathways involved in human pigmentation, the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC-1R) has been consistently a representative determinant of pigmentation phenotype. Another important pathway affecting human pigmentation besides α-MSH/MC-1R is ET-1/ETBR. Endothelin has been identified as a potent stimulator of proliferation and differentiation of human melanocytes. Endothelin is indeed secreted by keratinocytes and stimulated by UVB radiation to evoke a melanocyte response characterized by proliferation and melanogenesis. In addition, Endothelins have also been implicated in development of melanocyte dendricity.
and in vivo
study results show that DermaPep™ W411, composed of Methyl undecenoyl leucinate; potent MC-1R specific antagonist, and DermaPep™ W650; potent ETBR specific antagonist, works synergistically to inhibit melanogenesis in human skin. In vitro study results showed that both actives effectively inhibit UV-induced expression and production of tyrosinase, tyrosinase activity and finally melanin production. In vivo clinical study proved that DermaPep™ W411 is very effective agent to make your skin safer and brighter.
Mechanism of Whitening Action
In vitro Efficacy
The whitening efficacy of Dermapep™ W411 has been demonstrated in vitro by measuring melanin contents and tyrosinase activity on B26F10 mouse melanoma.
Inhibition of melanogenesis and tyrosinase activity
Dermapep™ W411 significantly inhibited melanin synthesis and endogenous tyrosinase activity induced by endothelin-1
In vivo Efficacy
Whitening Efficacy on Asian Skin Type
In a clinical study with 30 Asian healthy female volunteers (Bangkok), aged 40 to 60, 2% formula containing DermaPep™ W411 has been applied twice daily during 12 weeks on the face area. Evaluation was performed by chromameter (Chromameter CR-300®, Minolta, Japan) and digital photography.
The degree of whitening effect was estimated by following parameters :
L* = Luminosity (Lightness)
ITA˚ = Arc tan ((L*-50)/b*) 180π
Increase of L* and ITA˚ indicates a decrease in skin
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